This Week in Time: 17th to 23rd to October
You know you've had significant impact on your chosen industry when things are named after you and Abraham Louis Breguet is one such man with these gorgeous numerals being his namesake. Crudotaco shows two great examples of Breguet numerals, on the left a Patek Philippe and on the left a Gruen. Whilst both are beautiful pieces in this macro shot you can really see the difference in quality between the two; each numeral of the patek is hand finished and placed on the dial whilst the Gruen has been printed on. Not that a printed dial necessarily is bad but these applied numerals just have this pop to them that makes the Patek a Patek. That being said I love the guilloche centre dial of the Gruen, very mesmerizing.
Did you know that Omega made chronographs that weren't the Speedmaster? If you look through Instagram and watch forums you might be mistaken for thinking that but this stunning Omega Seamaster chronograph from kylelwatches shows just how wrong you can be. Whilst it does use the same movement as the classic Speedmaster the entire feel of the watch is different, the applied arrow hour markers and internal tachymetre give it a totally different look. As does the exposed chronograph pushers and funky bracelet. So remember folks, don't run straight to the Speedmaster for chronograph action. Kyle runs the NYC based patinatimepieces and has some really sweet pieces, including a wicked Benrus jump hour.
It's an fact of life that military paraphernalia is desirable with specially issued pieces being the creme de le creme and this pair of Omega watches is a great example. These two RAF Omega watches will be part of Watches of Knightsbridge November Auction and my oh my, they are a real pair. Not only are these pieces in seemingly fantastic condition but they are consecutive issued watches, 5622 & 5623 respectively. The chances of finding these two together in the wild is so slim yet somehow it's happened. Notice the solid lugs allowing for those ever so trendy NATO straps to be put through without fear of breaking? The arrow just above the 6 is the Broad Arrow symbol used to denote items that were issued to the military. Simply put, two great watches!
This is the stuff that dreams are made of. I bet there was plenty of champagne being popped at Hodinkee HQ when just five hours after released their collaboration with MB&F limited edition it sold out. Ten watches. $52,000 each. In such a relatively short space of time Hodinkee have become the defacto luxury watch website ( Calling Hodinkee a watch blog slightly diminishes their achievements don't you think?) and this is probably one of their crowning achievements. Regardless of what you think of the collaboration or whether you like the design of the MB&F is of course up to you a but no-one can take away what Benjamin Clymer and everyone at Hodinkee have accomplished. Congrats guys!
I know that several paragraphs above I wrote that Omega has other chronographs than the Speedmaster but just look at this piece. How could I not include it? This Omega Speedmaster just has everything for it doesn't it! Step dial, check. Applied Omega symbol, check. Affordable....maybe not. Time was looked very very kindly on this Ed White Speedmaster as an even chocolate patina has formed on the dial which matches perfectly with the brown bezel ring. Notice that it's not the standard tachymetre scale either but the much rarer Doctors Pulsation scale. For those in NYC today you should head down to 101 Wooster Street to see 10:25 Vintage in person at the Wind Up Wound and Wound Affordable Independent watch fair!
Ressence watches are a complete mystery to me in such a beautiful way. The notion of a watch that not only doesn't have a crown but a rotating dial which has sub dials rotating within it sounds like horological inception and by God their watches are dreamlime. The R.O.C.S. (Ressence Orbital Convex System) movement shown here looks shockingly simple yet there is far more going on that meets the eye.
This Rado Diastar from alushe909 is so shiney you need sunglasses to look at it! Even after all these years the case is still as perfect as when it first came out of the box. Whilst it's commonly thought of as the first ceramic watch, the Diastar was actually made of Tungsten Carbide instead giving it a more metallic shine than ceramic would. The first truly ceramic watch would be the Omega Cermet Black Tulip which would cost retail nearly three times as much as the Speedmaster of the time. To read more about the history of ceramics in watches click here! Also regardless of the technical achievement of the Rado, there was no way I could pass on this wicked chunky late sixties/early seventies design.